January 5, 2012 8:51 AM PST
The system on your bike is a 4 wire system, Left turn, Right turn, Brake, Tail. The trailer system is a 3 wire system, Left turn/brake, Right turn/brake, Tail. You must install a 4 wire to 3 wire converter, These are available at any RV place for about 20 bucks. Adding the additional load of LED through the converter will not affect your turn signals, brakes, tail because either you are running standard bulbs on the bike and the additional load has little to no affect or you already are running LEDs on the bike in which case you already have a load equalizer and need to tap in the converter after the load equalizer. The load equalizer is required when switching the bike from standard to LED because the TSSM uses the load of the bulbs for turn signal timing and security the load equalizer compensates for the reduced load of the LED by putting a resistor across the lights to increase the load. In other words you save no power by switching the bike from standard to LED lights because you have to add load to make the TSSM work. Adding the small amount of load from the trailer LED no affect. The plate light has no affect either way because it does not go through the TSSM and is always on.
So at the minimum you have to have a 4 wire to 3 wire converter.
You can also buy one of the more expensive units which hooks to the battery and completely issolates the trailer lights from the bike and only uses the bike light as an input with no additional load to the bikes lighting system because it is coming straight from the battery.
I'm running full LEDs on the bike with a load equalizer. Then I have a 4 to 3 wire converter and straight to the trailer.
I hope I have made this as clear as mud. I'm at work and don't have the color codes in front of me or I's include that.
If you don't want to use T splices on your bike you can get one of the plug and plays from JP, I just spliced them in, figured it can't hurt as crappy as the wiring harness is on a Harley.
See you at the Redwood Run.
January 5, 2012 9:28 AM PST
Makes perfect sense. Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Hopefully you'll see my trailer at Redwood too!!!
January 5, 2012 5:35 PM PST
OH! I forgot to mention one thing, this is for LED trailer lights. If you go with standard then the load is increassed too much for the TSSM. Then you have to get the issolator type so it doesn't overload the bikes lighting system, found out the hard way. I'm running the LED lights from Harbor Freight, work just fine.
January 6, 2012 6:06 AM PST
Holy crap Nakey I just learnt a helluva a lot from your two posts! Thank you sir! I hope you don't mind that I copied the text and put it in word and put in my with my service bulletin stuff?
January 12, 2012 7:10 AM PST
Ok, let me mkae sure I got this straight before I start... I hate to do things twice
If I put LED lights on the bike, I will need a load balancer and then can run LEDS on the trailer with no additional equipment.
If I keep the stock lights on the bike I can run LEDs on the trailer with no additional equipment
If I keep the stock lights on the bike and run standard bulbs on the trailer I need an isolator
Do I have that right?
January 14, 2012 5:14 AM PST
Yep, you got it right Lucky. If you run the LEDs on the bike without the load balance you turn signals will not work correctly. If you run standard lights on the bike and trailer without the isolator you will cause bigger problems.
January 24, 2012 9:56 AM PST
Here is a link to a trailer supply that I used to wire my 2010 Heritage for a trailer...plug and play
http://www.motorcycletrailerstore.com/ />