Long story kinda shorter. In'09 I was rear ended by a Poland spring delivery truck. The truck went right through me and my '95 Superglide and into the Honda Accord in front of me, trashing the bike (and me). Luckily I was thrown over the trunk of the Accord or I would probably been killed.

The bright side of the story is I got a brand spanking new Street Bob out of the settlement money last spring. I bought the Street Bob mainly because the stock bike is very similar to the Superglide I had modified/customized. I love the bike but, there is an issue. My Superglide was set up with a solo seat but, w/ the passenger pegs so, when the wife wanted to ride along I just popped on a suction cup pad and we were off. 

So, I purchased passenger peg mounts and this morning (unexpected day off). I got to work. Reading the installation instructions, I saw that it stated that I would need to move the rear wheel forward in order to remove the belt guard and remove the belt to install the drive side mount. This was more work then I had expected and I had to barrow a friends jack stand (mine is beyond repair) and as I was waiting for him to drop it off I was inspecting forward plate that secures the belt guard and it looked like, with a little ingenuity (I only have a little), I could do this without moving the tire. 

This is what I did:

1) Removed the guard. This is fairly easy and upfront. Just make sure you use a allen key you don't mind losing or bettr yet, a socket allen. The forward bolt is loc-titted (not a word) so, if you're using a key it may break. Make sure you use a thick cloth or something to cover the surrouning area because if you break the key you are liable to end up scratching your paint also.

2) Remove the seat. You will need the extra room.

3) Put together a 3/8 drive Torx and extender 10" minimum better with 12" or more  (I used a 10" and a 3" together), and a swivel socket (a good one).

Wrap the whole thing minus your swivel and torx, in masking tape. This will help protect your paint from scratches.

4) Carefully feed your extension and torx behind the belt into the bolts. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet with a reducer to break the bolt and then switched to a 3/8 drive but, you could do it with a 3/8 alone. Make sure to use a free hand to hold the torx in place as you break or you could risk it slipping and leaving a nasty gash. Once the bolts are broken things gets easier but, I still kept my hand on the torx just in case.

Note: You are going to have to work slowly and carefully to make sure everthing stays in place. There is no doubt it is a tight fit (That's what she said).

5) The mounts come with new bolts for both sides so you don't have to reuse the old ones. They have some loc-tite on them but, I added another drop of fresh just for good measure. Place the mount in position and install the bolts and tighten down so mount is flush.

6) This is another tricky part. You have to torque the bolts to 25-35 ft lbs. This is tricky using a swivle w/extensions. Lucky for me by the time I got to this step my friend had arrived so, he held the torx in place while I torqued the bolts. I don't think this would be impossible to do by yourself but, I would recommend using two people.

That's it. Drive side complete. I have to say that the installation instructions imply that the drive side is the source of concern but, I actually am having a tougher time with the other side. The plugs used to keep water out of the threads are lame. They fell apart when I tried to remove them and left behind part of their stems. I heated up a wire hanger and used it to melt the plastic to the hanger, let it cool and them pulled them out but, I'm not sure if I got the whole stem. Also the thread were badly corroded (hard ridin M'fer that I am ) I applied some penetrating oil and am letting it sit overnight. I'll report how it went later.

I hope this can be helpful to anyone who needs to perform the same task.

o.k the other side just needed a good clean out. I let some penetrating oil set in and then used a tap to clean out the threads. There was quite a bit of powder coating in the threads so I, would recommend taping the threads even if there is no corrosion visible. Bolts went in nice and easy.