This is Leather head In case any one is wondering I was a harley tech that got into leather stuff. I still ride I just don't wrench on anybodies bike but my own.   Any ways  Leather care, we all got it, we don't want to buy any more if it still works, well I dont at least.  here are some tips off my site to keep what you got in good shape

• To clean a leather item, first choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. . The cleaner of your choice should not leave any greasy residue behind. Residue makes leather susceptible to bacteria and can break down the stitching of your item. Before applying anything to your leather item, be certain to test it out for effect and possible color distortion on an area that isn't visible to the eye. Once you've ascertained whether the leather care product is acceptable to use, apply it to your item. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove the cleaning product.

• Leather conditioners are meant for occasional use. They contain fats and/or oils that help lubricate leather and replenish the suppleness. Look for a product that will penetrate the strong fibers in leather, but beware of any that include petroleum or mineral oils. While petroleum by-products won't damage your leather immediately, they do over a period of time. Again, just as with cleaning, keep on the look out for thick, greasy conditioning treatments for the best care of your leather. The cleaner and conditioner made by LEXOL is reccommended.

• Moisture barriers are extremely crucial in preventing rain or other liquid hazards from damaging leather. Stiffness and spouting will happen if leather isn't protected beforehand. There is a drawback in protecting leather with a moisture barrier product. They tend to fill in the pores with a greasiness that makes cleaning, conditioning, and polishing difficult, but it's a necessary process to ensure leather isn't destroyed. Periodically apply a moisture barrier and allow it time to penetrate and dry before using your leather item. Mink oil works well. Soften in microwave for easier application

• Fresh stains from things such as blood and food can be cleaned up quickly with a damp cloth. Stains from oil or grease can be lifted by grinding ordinary blackboard chalk, sprinkling the area, and leaving the powder on for a twenty-four hour period. Resist the urge to rub the powder in. After a sufficient time has past, simply use a leather care brush to remove the powder. While fresh stains can be treated and cleaned at home, ground-in stains should be attended to by a professional cleaner who deals in leather.

• To remove mildew from leather, create a mixture of one-cup rubbing alcohol per one-cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol, then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then remove with a clean dampened cloth and allow to dry

• An important key to keeping leather in top-notch condition is to treat wet leather before it has a chance to dry. Remove any dirt, mud, or other stains with a cleaning agent, then condition while the pores are still fully responsive. It is critical to remember that leather should be dried away from heat. If the leather in question is a garment, it's a good idea to stuff the garment to retain shape.

• Remember that leather is a natural material and should never be stored in plastic because it encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria and will ruin the leather. Always store leather in a cool, dry place away from heat. If the leather item is a garment, store in a breathable bag

these tips also apply to leather furniture too, so if you have a couch or a car with leather clean and condition it if you want it to last.

Thant is some great info...thanks.

(I've got to look into how the forum crops the user profile photos...that one-horned steer skull just doesn't look right!)

Leatherhead,

Any tips for what to do when the leather top layer is torn or peeled back? I've got a pair of black leather cowboy boots, and I must have ran into something pretty hard with the toe. Now the top (finished) layer is gone and the raw leather is exposed. I have filled it with black polish, but it is still rough compared to rest of the finished layer.

You can take the sharpest knife you got and cut the little flap off next you use fine grain sand paper and sand it down. You want to use at least 100grit or higher. You need to strip off any polish or wax first. you can sand it to match the rest of the boot for the most part then put kiwi or what you normally use and it should all shine evenly if you did it right. the fine grain is very important otherwise you will gouge or scratch the leather surface unevenly. I learned that in the army from tearing up my boots working on humvs. Works on most anything though. There is a synthetic goo I cant remember the name of it, that can fill in the scrape too. I usually put that on jackets because it is very high gloss stuff.

Tuff Toe! I use it on all of my husbands boots.

What do you all think a/b LeatherUp.com? Prices, quality of leather, selection....