October 18, 2011 7:43 AM PDT
My inattention almost cost me an engine. Inattention in regards to not being aware of a design problem with early twin cam engines. Rex, 04 RK, has about 68,000 miles and at PA state inspection my friend and mechanic mentioned that Rex sounded noisy. And he further explained that the cam drive chain tensioners were usually worn enough to replace at 30k and potentially engine damaging at higher mileage. Well he hit it directly on the head. The inner tensioner was metal on the chain and the outer was almost metal on the chain. Rex is all better now and ready for another 68,000 miles. YAY!
So why am I posting this? So anyone else here who has an early twin cam engine is forewarned. It could have been catastrophic if the chain came apart, possibly a new engine.
October 18, 2011 7:52 AM PDT
Thanx for the warning mate.This is a very common problem and yes does destroy its fair share of engines..CHEERS BOOF
October 18, 2011 8:31 AM PDT
Mike good infomation for everyone with a twin cam thanks. The dealer were I purchase my bike as about three or four worn out tensioners sitting on the service counter with a reminder on checking them.
October 19, 2011 12:19 PM PDT
This problem is common in Twin 88 prior to 06-07 depending on the model. The problems lies not so much in the tensioner but in the "shoes" holding it in place. 40k+ does seem to be the norm bit I've heard of it as early as 30k. If you are having new cams installed or any other major at a round 30k + i'd go ahead and replace them. The newer version don't have the same issue with the shoes so, once you change then out they should last quite awhile. Harly offers a hydraulic tensioner upgrade for the Twin 88 but, they run about $500 for the pair and require an upgraded oil pump as well (not sure how much for that) in order to have enough oil pressure to operate them.
If you're approaching the 30k mark and want to keep an eye out for wear you can filter the oil and cut open the filter during oil changes. Look for any sign of tiny orange pieces of plastic in the oil. If you see them you have wear in the tensioner shoes and need them replaced ASAP.
October 23, 2011 6:48 AM PDT
My recommendation for the old style spring tensioner set up is to convert to the new hydraulic cam plate... it's not cheap but it's the best cure for that old design. I have a friends with a 2000 FXDX and since he changed out the cam plate and went to the hydraulic tensioners he finds he has a livelier. Spring tensioners us 45 ft/lbs of tq to the chain where the hydraulic tensioners only apply 4 ft/lbs of tq.
October 23, 2011 10:25 AM PDT
Rex, I take it that you replaced the tensioners with the non-hydraulic ones? If I may, how much did that run you? My '05 will be needing this this winter as well, I'm sure. Bought her last year with 34K and is at 47K-48K now, and starting to get noisy (a bit like a VW bug with a few miles on it).
October 26, 2011 7:12 PM PDT
hey Rufcut, honestly if you're going to go through the trouble of opening up the cam plate what, besides funds, would keep you from just upgrading?
October 27, 2011 12:18 AM PDT
Changed to gear drive on an earlier TC. The strength of the EVO was convincing enough for me.
October 27, 2011 1:29 AM PDT
Absolutely nothing, provided I had the funds (which I don't). Even stock replacement should last longer than I will probably keep this bike
October 27, 2011 1:30 AM PDT
Yeah gear drive is probably THEE best change, there is still debate, however, on gear drive for the new Twinkies and I haven't followed up on that much as to why, but gear drive is the best set up for the 88's and it makes that motor thunder! heheheh
October 27, 2011 10:13 AM PDT
Rex, I take it that you replaced the tensioners with the non-hydraulic ones? If I may, how much did that run you? My '05 will be needing this this winter as well, I'm sure. Bought her last year with 34K and is at 47K-48K now, and starting to get noisy (a bit like a VW bug with a few miles on it).
Hey Jerry,
I did consider some performance upgrade cams and gear drive but with almost 70K on Rex (and double the parts cost) I decided not to mess with that.
I went with good stock replacement types (recommended by the mechanic). It comes as a complete kit with everything including the oil pump. To save pulling the heads the mech also replaced the pushrods with adjustable ones. Aprox $1200 parts and labor. I had other work done too so without pulling out the calc and finding the bill that is close. That is SE PA pricing. Labor here is probably higher than a lot of areas. Parts alone were close to $800.
I can get the mfg name and part number for you if you want. Send me a PM asking for it.
